Peripherals are a subjective, personal choice; there is no peripheral that is perfect for everyone. Each choice is a compromise in either features, quality, or price. Products with near-perfect features and quality have sky-high prices, while products with reasonable prices will always have some pros and cons regarding features and/or quality. Make sure you research the product you are interested in. It is ideal to select something with features you want and flaws you don't care about. This will help you choose a product that is perfect... for you.

For the mouse guide, items are sorted by price. Unlike other tables where there is an approximate correlation between price and performance, this does not apply to PC mice.

For a computer mouse, the most important criteria are comfort and accuracy. Other features, such as additional buttons, are usually placed third. Because "comfort" is subjective, it might be the case that the most comfortable mouse for you is a mid-tier mouse. Accuracy is dependent (mostly) on the mouse's sensor, and some of the most "perfect" sensors are found in the mid-range mice, not in the most expensive mice.

Look for a mouse that is comfortable and accurate enough before looking for any additional features that you want. If you simply scroll down and pick the most expensive computer mouse thinking that it is the best computer mouse, you will likely end up with a mouse that is both unsuitable and overpriced for your needs.

What do you look for when choosing a computer mouse?

Comfort: Comfort depends on both the mouse and the user. The mouse needs to be shaped to fit the user's hand size and grip style. The mouse should have a preferred shape, an adequate size, a comfortable weight, and a texture or finish that feels pleasant to the user. Since hand size, grip style, and preferred shape/texture vary between people, a mouse that is very comfortable for one person may be nearly unusable for another.

Comfort is subjective, and impossible to quantify or describe accurately, yet it is one of the most important criteria when choosing a mouse. It is highly recommended that the buyer tests the mouse in real life before purchase. Reading reviews and descriptions (particularly when the reviewer has a similar grip style) will help, but it will not be as good as holding the mouse in your hand to fully understand its shape, weight, and feel.

Precision: The purpose of a computer mouse is to track your hand movement in real life and translate it to cursor movement on a screen. If the mouse cannot track your movement as accurately as you want, then it has failed its purpose, regardless of how comfortable it is or what other features it has. Flaws which affect precision include:

• Mouse jitter (where the cursor randomly moves a few pixels in random directions)
• Tracking issues on certain surfaces
• Low malfunction speed. Malfunction speed is the fastest speed a mouse can move while tracking accurately. This criteria is important for fast-paced PC gaming.
• Acceleration (where the mouse moves a little faster or slower than what would be proportional to the physical distance traveled)
• Angle snapping (where the mouse tries to keep your lines straight)
• Other forms of "prediction". Mouse prediction is any algorithm that tries to predict where you will move your mouse.

These factors are not equal: Jitter is generally unacceptable for all users, but some users are OK with a little acceleration. These flaws also result from different sources: some of these factors are governed by the physical design of the mouse, while others will be affected by mouse-specific or operating-system-specific mouse software.

The usage of the mouse also affects the importance of precision. Gamers (particularly in fast-paced computer games) often demand perfect precision, while general users may be very happy with just "good" precision. See the Optical vs. Laser Sensors section below for more info.

Hand grip style: Most mice are shaped by taking into consideration how the user holds the mouse. The three most common grips are palm grip, claw grip, and fingertip grip. Credit to Razer for the following images:

Most manufacturers try to make mice as comfortable as possible to all grip types, but some mice will be more suited to certain grips. Make sure you test the mouse you intend to buy to see how comfortable it is using your preferred grip.

Some mice have their grip style designated as simply "Ergonomic;" these mice are designed to be particularly well-fitting, and will usually work well with any grip style, though they may be preferred by those using the palm grip.

Size: The size of the mouse is an important aspect of comfort, and depends mostly on the user's hand size. Those with large hands may prefer larger mice, since their hands may feel cramped when holding a small mouse. Those with small hands may find large mice difficult to hold properly, and thus difficult to control. Some mice (e.g. Model O, and Model O-) come in two differently sized versions so you can get the best "fit." As a note on how different dimensions affect usage: Some prefer very wide mice, so that they can rest the pinky finger. Height of a mouse affects comfort with different grip styles, e.g. mice that are too tall may not be comfortable for palm grip. By comparison, claw grip requires a mouse with a relatively short length.

Weight: Some people prefer a light mouse to reduce fatigue when using the mouse for extended time periods. Others say that heavier mice feel more "solid." Some mice come with customizable weight: You can add or remove small extra weights to the mouse, so that the mouse weight feels right for you.

Buttons: Depending on your needs, you may be happy with a 3-button mouse, or you may be dissatisfied with anything less than 7 buttons. Gamers may want an extra thumb button, and on-the-fly DPI adjust can be useful in some situations. That said, if you are not using the extra buttons, you would be wasting your money if you spent more on the "more buttons" mouse. So, get the mouse with the adequate number of buttons. Remember: The Microsoft WMO (used by pros to win gaming tournaments) only has 3 buttons, not 20.

DPI/CPI: Do not pay more for a mouse with extremely high DPI/CPI. DPI/CPI measures sensitivity, not precision or accuracy. The general consensus is that 1000-2000 DPI is the "perfect" range, neither too slow or too fast, though many fast FPS gamers prefer the increased speed of the ~2400-3200 range. Above that, the sensitivity of the mouse may become an issue, making the cursor move too fast for perfect control. Thus, when you see mice advertising their 8000+ DPI settings, consider it to be a useless gimmick, as the mouse would be far too sensitive to be used for anything other than making the cursor dance to your heartbeat. The Microsoft WMO (used by pros to win gaming tournaments) only has a DPI of 400.

"Extra" features: There are many "extra" features a mouse can have that are unrelated to either comfort or precision. These include: Programmable buttons, customizable LEDs, two-mode scrolling, on-the-fly DPI adjust, wireless-ness, durability, cable braiding/flexibility, etc. Some of these features can be very useful (such as two-mode scroll for very large documents). Some serve no functional purpose, but may be desired by some users (such as custom LEDs).

Video: For those of you who are more visual or auditory learners, here is our ultimate guide video for buying a computer mouse:

What are optical and laser mice?

Optical computer mouse: Uses an LED. Better precision/accuracy, but does not work on glass or very shiny surfaces.

Laser computer mouse: Uses an infrared laser. Works on glass and shiny surfaces, and is usually present in high-end mice with the most features, but suffers from imperfect tracking/accuracy.

Unfortunately, many people are deceived by the marketing that comes with laser mice:

• There is an image of "extreme precision" associated with lasers. This is played up heavily by the marketing, which usually implies that laser mice are more accurate or have better tracking than optical mice. This is false. How accurate and precise a mouse is depends on how flawless the sensor is, and generally speaking, all "flawless sensor" mice are optical. Laser sensors have acceleration that cannot be removed, and there are no "flawless sensor" laser mice available for purchase.
• The DPI/CPI issue: Years ago, laser mice had DPI ranges that were typically double what was found in typical optical mice, and many mistakenly believe that higher DPI/CPI is better. DPI is a measure of sensitivity, not precision or accuracy, so higher DPI is more sensitive, which may or may not be better. Many high-end modern optical mice have DPI/CPI ranges that rival laser mice, so this is a non-issue if you do your research.
• Features. Many high-end mice with unique features (a second scroll wheel?) are laser mice. This creates the unfortunate situation where wanting to get these features means paying more and yet sacrificing the perfect sensor.

The above issues create the common belief that laser mice are always better. This is false. For general usage, where some minor acceleration is tolerable, laser mice are still fine. For gaming (particularly FPS), "perfect sensor" mice are always better, and perfect sensor mice are currently all optical. The situations where laser mice are better are when you need the mouse to track on glass or a shiny surface, or when you need some of the unique features found in high-end laser mice. Otherwise, optical mice with perfect sensors are better and cheaper.

You might have a favourite mouse that you are using now, or you have just read a good review for a particular mouse. After checking the mice recommendations above, you wonder: Why is it not on the list?

There are many mice that are not included on the list of recommendations, for various reasons. These reasons include:

• Being EOL. A product that is at its EOL (end-of-life) is no longer being manufactured (discontinued), and thus there is a limited amount of stock left. Once stock begins to run out, prices rise, and the product becomes difficult or outright impossible to buy.
• Did not make the cut. Due to space constraints, not every good mouse can be added to the list. Some mice are good, and decently reviewed, but have superior competing products in the same price range. When there is an 8/10-rated mouse with similarly priced 9/10-rated competitors, it will probably not be included.
• Being overrated and/or overpriced. Some products (particularly the gaming stuff) are launched with powerful marketing campaigns, and heavily advertised as being the latest and greatest, the most superior, the ultimate in functionality and quality, etc. The price of such products is usually set to match the claims being made. Unfortunately, many such products fail to live up to the hype, despite the high price. If the price is reduced to match the quality/specs, some of these mice may be worthy of consideration.
• Having a flawed sensor. Some high-end mice may not be included because of the notably flawed sensors being used, even if such mice are otherwise quality products with solid construction and features. If there is a "flawless sensor" alternative available, it is much more likely that this alternative is included instead.
• Being too new. It takes several months for mice to be widely available, and widely reviewed.

Some (potentially great) mice which are not in the list due to the reasons above include:

• Microsoft WMO and Intellimouse
• Steelseries Ikari, Kana, Kinzu
• Roccat Kone XTD, Kone Pure, Kone[+], and Kova[+]
• Logitech G500s, G400s, G700s, and G9X
• Corsair M30, M65, and M95
• Razer Abyssus, Taipan, Mamba, and Ouroboros
• FinalMouse
• Cooler Master Storm Xornet

If you do not find anything suitable for you in the table of mouse recommendations, then take a look at the alternatives just listed. If you have a recommendation for a great mouse that we do not list here, please let us know in the comment section below!

 

• Question: I am still unsure of what to buy. Is there a perfect PC mouse?
  Answer: No. Every mouse has some flaws, and there is no computer mouse that is perfect in everything. Some mice are very good at certain aspects though, and can be considered somewhat close to "perfect".

 

• Question: Which PC mice are closest to "perfect", then?
  Answer: That depends on your needs, but some candidates include:
  
  
  • Logitech G502 ($60): This mouse is popular enough (and superior enough) that it has a popular forum dedicated to singing its praises. It has an excellent shape, a huge number of buttons, a dual-mode scroll, and the weight is customizable. The G502 is based on the G500s, which was hugely praised for its features back in the day, but suffered from having a laser sensor. Logitech improved the design further, and now uses a flawless optical sensor for the G502. The drawbacks of the G502 are that it is right-handed, and is heavy, so it is not suitable for those who prefer a lightweight mouse. The latest version is the G502 Hero.
  • Razer DeathAdder ($60): The global favourite because of how very comfortable it is and how widely available it is. The DeathAdder also comes from a pedigree of winners: There have been several versions of the DeathAdder dating all the way back to 2006, and they were all globally popular for their comfort. The flaws of the DeathAdder are that it is not ambidextrous (though a left-handed version is available), it is a little pricey, it usually does not last long, and it carries the stigma of Razer's excessive and cheesy marketing.
  • Zowie's S series ($60-80): Great contenders for the perfect mouse because of the simplicity, ambidexterity, comfort, and perfect sensor. The Zowie S does not require drivers, so it is a great plug-and-play mouse, particularly when using non-Windows operating systems. The Zowie S is a small improvement over the Zowie FK, which itself is an improvement over the Zowie AM, having a shape and profile that makes it easier to hold and more comfortable for palm grip. Zowie is a fairly young company when compared to the competition, so the brand is not well known, and the mouse has availability issues in many countries.
  • Glorious Model O ($50-60): A mouse that was designed by taking the best and most beloved features of all the great mice, and combining them into one product. The mouse comes in two sizes, two colours, and two finishes (glossy or matte), which means that there is a version of the mouse that is guaranteed to be visually appealing and comfortable for the user. The cable is one of the best, the design is unique, and the mouse is very light. Glorious is a very young company though, so the mouse is not available everywhere.
  
  A "great" mouse would have the simplicity and ambidexterity of the Zowie S, the comfort and availability of the DeathAdder, the features  and customizability of the G502, and the appeal and cable of the Model O, but even then it would not be perfect for everyone.
  Other candidates: The Endgame XM1 seems to have gotten perfect reviews from everyone, but it is extremely new. Former candidates: The G400s and Mionix NAOS 7000 were both on this list. Both are EOL now, and may they RIP. 

 

• Question: What about [mouse X]? Why is it not on the list?
  Answer: There are many mice that are not included on the list of recommendations, for various reasons. Find them in the alternative mice section.

 

• Question: What about MMO mice?
  Answer: MMO mice are very niche, and very interesting mice. They have their own section. Read all about MMO mice.

• Question: What about other "very niche" mice?
  Answer: There are several categories of mice that we do not include in our list, not because they are bad, but due to the extremely specific target market. These include:
  
  
  • MMO mice
  • Trackball mice
  • Expensive "professional" mice, such as the Logitech Performance MX.
  • "Sponsored" mice: Often identical to an existing mouse, but with different colours or an extra logo.
  • "Extreme" mice: Some mice have extremely fantastic features, such as adjustable length, adjustable weight, adjustable LEDs, etc. These extra features make the mouse very costly, but may not be as useful as advertised, and sometimes may negatively affect build quality.

• Question: Will I need a mousepad?
  Answer: You will not need one, but a good mousepad will help reduce friction, and thus give a smoother glide. A mousepad will also help reduce wear and tear on both your table and your mouse's feet. Since mousepads are quite cheap, it is recommended that you get a good one. There are several mousepad links in the More Information section below.

• Question: Are wireless mice better?
  Answer: Not really. Wireless mice improve the look of your desk by reducing clutter, since you will have one less wire. The drawback is that wireless mice (generally) suffer from lag, as well as being heavy due to having batteries. The high-end wireless mice can be light and/or have imperceptible lag, but they are expensive.

• Question: Are all wireless mice rechargable?
  Answer: No. A rechargable wireless mouse will be advertised as such, but some wireless mice use batteries. By using batteries, the mouse is cheaper to manufacture, when compared to a rechargable wireless mouse. However, you will need to buy new batteries every time the old ones run out, which can be a deal-breaking hassle for some.

• Question: Can I use the reprogrammable DPI buttons for something else?
  Answer: Yes. Just like any other reprogrammable mouse button, you can bind the DPI buttons to different functions or key binds (copy, paste, refresh, F1, F2, etc).

• Question: Is there a difference in using USB or PS/2 port for the mouse?
  Answer: Not much. USB mice can be plugged in and used immediately, while PS/2 needs a PC restart. USB ports allow for a higher data transfer rate than PS/2, but this is not an issue when it comes to mice.

• Question: This FAQ list doesn't contain my Q. Will you add more FAQs?
  Answer: Yes. Ask away in the comment section at the bottom of the page, or send us an email at contact@logicalincrements.com!

These are some topics for those who want to delve a little deeper into PC mice. Be warned that some of the described activities can void your warranty, and can permanently damage your hardware. Apply at your own risk.

Switches

The switches (or microswitches) in a mouse are the mechanical sensors underneath each button to catch your clicking. High-end mice typically have Omron or Huano switches, while low-end (and some mid-tier) mice have TTC switches.

• Omron switches - Easy click, fast reset. Suitable for everything, but particularly in situations where fast select/unselect are needed, such as RTS games.
• Huano switches - Stiffer click, slightly delayed reset. Suitable for situations where it is important not to misclick, or where you need to ensure that a button is firm and does not "unclick" by mistake, such as FPS.
• TTC switches - The standard buttons in all cheap mice. May be used in high-end mice for non-essential buttons.

Omron switches are generally preferred by most people, though a few prefer the stiffness of the Huano switches.

Tape Trick

The "tape trick" is used to reduce lift-off distance in optical mice. The idea is to use tape to reduce the amount of light the sensor can read, and thus the sensor needs to be closer to the surface in order to function. Incoming light can be reduced by adding layers of transparent tape, or outgoing light can be reduced by half-blocking the LED opening. A picture speaks a thousand words:

Tape trick links:

• OCN: "Tape-Trick" for lower liftoff-distance(LOD) with optical mice (forum)
• How to fix lift off distance (LOD) problem on Mionix Naos 3200 (youtube)

KinzuAdder (Dangerous)

Some people like the DeathAdder's internals and sensor, but they also like the Kinzu's shape and feel. To get the best of both worlds, they take out the DeathAdder's internals, and transplant them into a Kinzu. Get it right, and you can have the mouse of your dreams. Get it wrong, and you have ruined not one, but TWO mice.

KinzuAdder links:

• OCN: KinzuAdder v2Pro/3.5G build (forum link)
• ESR: KinzuAdder (forum link)

Overclocking (Dangerous)

You cannot overclock the mouse itself, but you can make your computer poll the mouse more frequently. In other words: Instead of the computer getting readings from the mouse at a rate of 125 readings per second (125Hz), you can ask your computer to take 1000 readings per second (1000Hz). More readings per second translates to a smoother motion and reduced mouse lag. In many modern mice, this is a feature that can be done via the mouse's bundled software. On some mice (particularly old models) you need to increase the polling rate by tinkering with your system files instead.

Overclocking links:

• OCN: Mouse optimization guide, section 2.2 (forum)
• Mouse Rate Checker (software)

For some seriously in-depth information on mice, as well as a few miscellaneous topics, read on:

• Tom's guide to mousepads
• LifeHacker: Choosing the perfect mouse and keyboard
• OCN: An Overview of Mouse Technology (forum)
• Configuring your mouse to be left-handed
• OCN: Mouse optimization guide (forum)
• OCN: Mouse Sensor List (forum)
• ESR: Flawless sensor mice (forum)
• Arstechnica: Does DPI matter in gaming mice?
• HowStuffWorks: Mouse
• OCN: Mouse DPI vs Windows Sensitivity (forum)
• TeamLiquid: Ultimate Mouse Thread (forum)
• TeamLiquid: Mouse Size Comparison (imgur)
• /r/MouseReview (forum)

Many thanks to all the people who helped improve this guide. Doritoman125 and /r/buildapc, that means you! If you have any comments, suggestions, or criticisms, let us know in the comment section below.